Any trip to Albania is not complete without exploring the stunning mountain ranges and regions. Head to Theth for incredible views, hiking, and so much more!
Getting to Theth, Albania
Upon leaving Budva, we began to make our way to theAlbanian border to cross over and head to our first destination, Theth.
Theth is a city in the mountains that until recently was difficult to get to, with most travelers opting to venture to Shkoder, a larger city, and then take day trips or guided tours around Theth to various hiking spots. Thankfully for us, however, the road to Theth was completed in 2021, and it was fully paved and accessible in our normal 4-door rental car. While it is quite narrow in some spots with hairpin turns, it’s overall a safe and navigable drive. Just be very vigilant paying attention for cars coming the other direction when making the blind turns, and keep an eye out for farm animals that might venture onto the roads!
Lunch Stop: Boga Alpine Restaurant
This was a dreamy spot in the mountains to pull over and have lunch at, it was raining a bit during our drive so the misty fog on the green mountains coupled with a warm meal was a lovely way to start our journey. Boga Alpine Resort would be a great place to stay if you didn’t want to stay in Theth but wanted a mountain escape or a great camping spot.
Theth Accommodation — Bujtina Miqesia
This guesthouse was rustic and a nice stay. We did have quite a small room, and there wasn’t heating available since we were too early in the season, but fortunately it wasn’t too cold at night. The breakfast included was amazing, they served Petullas which are a fried dough served with butter, jams, and honey, kind of like an Albanian donut. They also made us eggs and served bread with cheeses, meats and tomatoes and cucumber. It was a really filling way to start the day of hiking. The owners of Bujtina Miqesia were very friendly and helpful during our stay and it’s located on the main road of Theth.
Theth Restaurants & Bars
Jezerca Restaurant
This place had a cozy fireplace and a decent menu, perfect for finishing off a day of exploring. I enjoyed a red with a vegetarian risotto. Jezerca is also a hotel in addition to a restaurant, and is a cozy, cabin atmosphere that is perfect for a relaxing dinner. The service was a little slow, but overall it was a nice experience and the ambiance is exactly what we were looking for.
Gurra Family Restaurant
This meal was phenomenal, a fantastic dive into Albanian cuisine. We had a baked feta cheese dish that had tomatoes and olives and was served with bread, grilled pork and chicken, and beer. It was all delicious and a ton of food, it was at this meal we somewhat realized a lot of restaurants serve food that is “family style” so we should have only ordered 1 entree of grilled meat and shared a salad or some other dish to balance it out, but it was all absolutely delicious and the service at this restaurant was great. It also had a cozy, cabin vibe with a fireplace and wood interior. I would definitely recommend eating a meal at Gurra Family Restaurant or staying at the guesthouse during a trip to Theth.
Things to See & Do in Theth
Theth is a gorgeous village in the Theth National Park, a mountainous region of Albania that is well-known for its stunning natural beauty. When in the village, you’ll walk along the banks of a crystal-clear river, flowing over stones that make comprise the riverbank and roads leading through the town. Completely surrounded by mountains, stunning views of the peaks with alpine forests are everywhere to be seen.
The Theth to Valbona Hike
While we were not able to do the complete hike, seeing as there wasn’t a way to organize transport back to Theth from Valbona, we did a full day hike to the peak, Maja Jezercë, and back to Theth. It’s a challenging but gorgeous hike, with stops along the way at mountain cafes, parts that take you through forests, and all with amazing views at every turn. It’s a full-day experience, I would highly recommend bringing snacks and ample amounts of water, but thankfully there were quite a few vendors along the route. We stopped at the mountain cafe and even had a bowl of potato soup, which was delicious, warming, and perfect fuel to get us along to the peak.
I would also recommend packing layers and warm clothes options; while we were mostly lucky with the weather, there were a few moments near the top where it was quite cold and I was glad I had gloves in my bag. While it’s a busy trail, it’s best to be well-prepared to not find yourself in a situation where you might need help from others on their hikes.
Back in Theth right off the trailhead was a little outdoor bar and cafe, the perfect finishing point to a day of hiking. We enjoyed an Aperol Spritz with an incredible view, feeling very accomplished after spending over 6 hours venturing up and down the mountain pass.
The Blue Eye Kaprre
If you’re lucky to have a sunny day while in Theth, use that day to venture to The Blue Eye. You can hike all the way from Theth if you have a full day; we did not so we opted to pay the €5 for a taxi to get us to the start of the trail, and then enjoyed an easy, 30-minute hike through some forested areas along a gulch to get to the incredible blue swimming hole and waterfall.
The water was freezing, but it felt amazing after working up a sweat in the sunshine. We arrived early which was the key — before the tour buses and groups arrive. It was incredible to enjoy sitting on a rock in the icy, bright blue water without anyone else around for a brief span of time.
Gamti Mountain
After saying goodbye to Theth and beginning our journey south to Tirana, we stopped to see Gamti Mountain. While you can make a hike out of Gamti, we were short on time so we drove to the parking area that is very near the peak view, where you’ll pay about €1 to venture up a metal staircase to a viewing area of this stunning man-made lake and mountains. There’s a cafe in the parking area, and there are a lot of people in camper vans spending the night at various spots along the way. It was a gorgeous place that would’ve been nice to spend a night at but it wasn’t far from our accommodation in Tirana, so a short stop was just fine too.
I will say the drive up to the parking area was the most treacherous — with tons of potholes and very narrow spots where it was hard to fit two cars. Be super vigilant and drive slowly — getting a flat tire here would be rough as there’s limited cell reception if you need help.
Tirana Accommodation — Troci Hotel
While we didn’t do much in Tirana and only spent one night here to rest before heading to the coast, I did want to shout out the Troci Hotel as a a great accommodation option if you need somewhere to stay after exploring Gamti Mountain. It was on the edge of the city toward the mountain, making it easy to access which was great in the dark, and the hotel itself was luxurious while being affordable. We had a huge room with a comfortable bed, a jacuzzi tub, and the included breakfast buffet was extensive and filling. It’s not close to the main attractions of Tirana, but it’s perfect for a relaxing night of sleep after days spent hiking the mountains and sleeping in more rustic conditions.
Albania is home to some incredible mountain views, hiking opportunities, and gorgeous waterways. It’s absolutely a place where any hiking enthusiast should visit, and if you love a roadtrip with amazing scenery, it’s the place for you. Even though many of our driving stints were quite long, the vistas the whole way were so incredible it felt like a fun activity on its own. I would highly recommend anyone who enjoys spending time outdoors and hiking make a trip to Albania, and don’t be afraid of driving yourself around. It was far easier than I expected.
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